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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.